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Arkadia - Peloponnese 
In the heart of the Peloponnese lies the fourth-largest Prefecture in
Greece. Arkadia stretches over an area of 4,418 square kilometres, with
high snowy mountains -Mainalo (1,935m), Parnon (1,935 m), Saita (1,812m),
Skiathio (1,800m)- covered in shady forests of pine, fir and chestnut.
There are grazing lands and cultivated areas where a variety of crops
are grown. Mt Mainalo has an excellent skiing centre, yet not far to the
east are the sunny beaches of Kynouria. In Arkadia, nature has been tireless
in providing alternation in the landscape. The same is true of the climate: it is mildest along the superb coastline at Astros, near attractive Leonidio, and at Tyros, but it becomes more continental as we move towards the mountainous centre of the Prefecture. There is heavy rain and frequent snow in winter, and Tripoli, the capital of the Prefecture, enjoys the lowest temperatures in the whole of the Peloponnese. Despite all this beauty, the population of Arkadia- and of the upland areas in particular- has been falling constantly in recent years. People have moved out in search of a better life in Athens and abroad. Life is hard in isolated villages in the forests, by the side of rushing torrents, and perhaps the state has not displayed the interest it should have shown. In 1951, Arkadias population was 154,361; in 1961 it was down to 134,950 and by 1971 to 111,263. The decline has not stopped there, and today Arkadia has no more inhabitants than does Corinthia in half the area. When the inhabitants left, they abandoned their fine two storey stone-built houses; entire villages of superb examples of traditional architecture were in danger of crumbling away. In recent years, however, restoration work has begun, and the state has placed preservation orders on whole villages -such as Stemnitsa- to ensure that their character remains unchanged. For those who have remained, the coasts provide good fishing, the plain of Megalopolis, watered by the Alpheios, the largest river in the Peloponnese, is suitable for farming, and the mountainsides are still alive with innumerable flocks of sheep and goats. Indeed it was the pastoral life which made Arkadia famous worldwide; in world literature, Arcadian came to signify the kind of rural life that seemed ideal - at least to those who did not have to live it. 
After Kiveri, the coastal road from the Argolid continues to the south
to Paralio Astros, a charming resort village with, at Nisi, the ruins
of a Venetian castle. The main road continues south west and soon enters
Astros. The countryside around Astros is extremely fertile, and trees,
flowers and undergrowth are all watered by the spring known as Mana. The
area is famous for its peaches, while it also produces olive oil, wheat
and other cereals, pears, etc. Astros makes fine rugs, with intricate
weaving and pleasant designs. Soon, after leaving Astros, the road south
comes to a fork. The left turning takes us to the pretty village of Oreini Meligou, on the thickly-forested slopes of Mt Parnon. It also leads to Lake Moustos, and a spring whose water is supposed to be good for sufferers from rheumatism and arthritis. The other fork leads south east to Korakovouni, which hides the ruins of a Venetian castle among its plane trees. The village of Ayios Andreas, further to the south, is also pretty, and we can descend east from there to its beach, Paralia Ayiou Andrea, amongst olive trees, orange trees and lemon trees. The road carries on to the south, beside the sea. From the pretty village of Paralia Tyros a minor road to the right (west) leads up the hill to Tyros, which preserves the name of an ancient city. The villages of Sapounakeika, Pera Melana and Pragmatefti lie beside the sea, after which the road follows the fine Sambatiki coast as far as the turning to the west into Leonidi. Leonidi takes its name from a little church to St Leonidas, which is mentioned in a chrysobull of the Emperor Andronikos Komninos of 1282. The town is built on the site of the ancient city of Prasiae, on the banks of a river which is usually dry in spring and summer. The town is closed in on three sides by mountains, the fourth side being open in the direction of the sea. There are a few bridges linking the houses on the two sides of the riverbed. It is the capital of the province of Kynouria (also known as Tsakonia), and its inhabitants, along with those of the surrounding countryside, speak the peculiar Tsakonian dialect, which has traces of the ancient Doric, language. The local tsakonikos dance and the local costume, known as tzoumbes, also preserve Doric austerity. The rugs made in the district are handsome and hard-wearing. 
To the west of Leonidi, the road runs first to the Elons nunnery and then
climbs into the forest of Mt. Parnon, running through the upland village
of Kosmas before descending to the historic town of Yeraki. South of Leonidi
and Plaka, a road directs to Tsitalia and another road to the beautiful
Poulithra, with its ultimate destination Laconia and the imposing town
of Yeraki. The old road from Argos continues towards Tripoli along the
slopes of Mt Parthenio. We come to the village of Ayiorgitika, where a
fine Archaic statue, currently in the Athens Archaeological Museum, was
found. We soon pass through Steno, cross the Sarantapotamos river and
enter Tripoli. The town stands almost in the centre of the Peloponnese,
at an altitude of 650 metres, on the Arcadian plateau. Although the plain
itself is almost treeless and the climate is harsh, the mountainsides
around are far from bereft of vegetation. Tripoli itself is an important
commercial and administrative centre. Tripoli is an important communications
centre, with roads spreading out like the spokes of a wheel to all parts
of the Peloponnese. Indeed, it is hard to avoid Tripoli when traveling
in the area. A main road and minor road leave Tripoli and cross the plain
of Tegea. The main road runs in a southerly direction into Lakonia. The
main road to Kalamata leaves Tripoli to the south west. A turning to the
right at 6.5 kms brings us on to a minor road to Valtetsi, a historic
village built on a rocky slope and surrounded by mountains. The next turning
off the Kalamata road to the left, east leads to Pallantio. 
After the turning for Pallantion, the road to Kalamata runs up to the
Kaloyerikos pass, at 800 metres, and then twists down into the plain again.
At about the 15th kilometer, we come to the Frankovrysi spring, which
the ancients believed to be the source of the rivers Alpheus and Eurotas.
This is the start of the plain of Asea, as it was called in antiquity,
or Sapiko, to use its medieval name (also known today as Sapolivado).
A minor road leads off uphill to the right (north west) and enters Asea,
a thickly-vegetated and well-watered area, which lies at the foot of Mount
Profitis Elias (which may be the ancient Korphios). The main road twists
down into Megalopoli - care should be taken on the bends. Megalopoli is
an administrative and commercial centre for the surrounding agricultural
region, which produces mostly cereals and animal products. The town stands
almost in the middle of a small plain, near its ancient namesake (the
name mears "large city"). It is encircled by mountains - Mainalos to the
north, Lykaion to the northwest, and Taiyetos to the south. The river
Alpheus passes to the west and south, and the Elissonas (or Barboutsiana,
or Daria River) to the north. The main road some 20 kms to the south west
of Megalopoli enters the Prefecture of Messenia. The main road, which
leads South-West out of Megalopolis towards Kalamata, soon (2 kms) meets
a minor road to the right (west) which runs through a fine oak forest.
A little further on, at the village of Apiditsa, the road forks, one branch
going to the left (southwest) to Isari, finely situated at an altitude
of 850 metres, with an impressive view of the mountains of Arkadia and
Taiyetos. The road continues through a wooded area, ending at Vasta. A little further to the north we come to Lykaio, 600 meters up with a fine spring in the centre, and the road ends at Ano Karyes. The village, which stands at an altitude of 850 meters, has fine mountain scenery, with six springs, walnut trees, abundant flowers and grass. Ano Karyes is the starting-point for the ascent of Mt Lykaion (1,421 metres), an interesting walk of about an hour. At about 1,200 metres we come to small plateau, known to the locals as Elliniko, where traces have been found of a shrine to Pan, god of the Arcadian shepherds. A charming side-road leads out of Megalopoli to the south, into an area notable for its thick vegetation, pleasant villages and monasteries, but famous above all for the part it played in the Greeks struggle for freedom. Four kilometers from Megalopoli we come to Yefira, where there is a bridge over the Alpheus. 
At the 11th kilometer to the south, at a height of 540 meters, stands
Leontari, which was a town of importance in the 14th century, when it
was the seat of the Despots of the Morea (Peloponnese). A minor road leads
south west from Leontari, through Kalyvia with a turn to Veligosti and
Paradisia. The road continues along the valley of the river Xerilas (in
ancient times, Karnion), through the villages of Kambohori, Kamara and
Kato Yanneika. Yanneika, near the banks of the Xerilas, has a spot where
a spring bubbles up in an idyllic setting. The road climbs southwards
outside the village of Kato Yanneika. This road passes near the gorge
of Kouvaras, with numerous springs, about 16 kilometers from Leontari,
where there is an interesting cave. We then pass through the pretty village
of Ano Yanneika (1,000 metres). Further to the south stands Dyrrachi, built at a height of 840 meters. It is an attractive and verdant village, divided into four separate settlements. There are fine pine-clad mountain slopes all around. A minor road leads from Dyrrachi to the east, through Neochori and on South to the Sparta-Kalamata road. A main road leads out of Megalopoli to the north. About 20 kilometers from Megalopoli we enter Karytaina, an impressive village whose easily-fortified position made it important from the Middle Ages to the time of the Revolution. The main road twists on to the West, towards Ileia. At the 23rd kilometer from Megalopoli, a small road to the left leads to a Turkish mosque and the village of Kourouniou. The road continues through fine scenery, with the Alpheus flowing in a deep ravine to the right, up to Theisoa (Lavda) at a height of 400 meters. The main road continues to Andritsaina. Two roads, one a main one and the other more minor, lead south from Tripoli to the Tegea plain. The main one, continuing south, leads to the Lakonia region and Sparta, while the smaller road takes us to the south east, with imposing views of the bulk of Mt Parnon (Malevos), one of the most thickly-forested Greek mountains. The river Tanos can be seen to the left, as can villages in the Kastri area - Karatoula, Nea Hora, Kakavos, etc. At a point 14 kilometres south of Tripoli, after the village of Rizes, the minor road divides. 
The right (eastward) branch leads to the villages of Ayia Sophia, Prosilia, Ano Doliana and the town of Astros. Longer, but much more interesting, is the left branch (to the south east), which climbs round bends and branches off at 22 kilometers from Tripoli to the attractive village of Kato Doliana, famous in the Greek War of Independence of 1821. Thirty five kilometers from Tripoli, we come to Ayios Petros, at an altitude of 940 meters. The village is well-watered and has a wide variety of trees, including apple, pear, plum and cherry trees, chestnuts and planes, as well as bushes and other greenery. Cypresses, pines, firs and oak trees may be seen towards the peaks of Mt Parnon. The road continues to the north east, down to the coastal plain. We pass through Oreini Meligou and enter Astros. A minor road leads northwest from Tripoli. We pass through Silimna (880 meters), which was the rallying-point during the Orloff revolt in 1770. At 10 kilometers, a road to the left (west) leads to Tselepakos
and from there to Zarakova, 950 meters up the side of Mt Mainalos. The main road continues among pine trees. At the 15th kilometer we reach Davia. A minor road leads from Davia to the west and soon, at a height of 1,150 meters, enters Chrysovitsi. The village is set in a pine forest, and there is a saw-mill. A little way before we reach Stemnitsa (Ipsous), a turning to the left leads to Elliniko, Syrna, Psari, Paliomiri and Pavlia before joining the Megalopoli-Karytaina road. Following the main route after the turning for Elliniko, the road climbs north west and enters Stemnitsa (Ipsous).
Stemnitsa has scores of fine houses, most of which are restored or newly-built using traditional materials and techniques. The road leaves Stemnitsa to the west and soon turns north. A minor road to the right (east) leads to the mountain summer resort of Zygovisti, at 1,200 meters, near which is the Aimyalo monastery. Dimitsana lies some 54 kilometers to the northwest of Tripoli. The town stands at 950 meters, in a verdant area, with fine views of the Arcadian mountains, the river Lousios, where Zeus is reputed to have bathed, and the plain of Megalopolis. Dimitsana is an ideal centre for excursions to shady glades and pine forests. A minor road to the west and then south leads to the pretty and verdant village of Zatouna, at 900 meters. Another road, leading north, and before entering the village of Karkalou, where it joins the Tripoli-Vitina-Pyrgos road, has a fork to the pretty and verdant village of Servou. The main road leaves Tripoli to the north, with the pine-clad slopes Mainalos on the left. We soon pass the Monastery of Epano Chrepa. The main road continues northwest. We pass the pretty village of Kapsia, and come to a crossroads. The branch of the road to the west leads to the skiing centre of Mainalos (at 1,000 m., 30 kilometers from Tripoli). Twenty six kilometers along the main road from Tripoli, we come to Levidi, a large village at a height of 750 meters. The landscape is most attractive. 
A road leaves Levidi to the north east, and soon comes to a fork to the
right (east) which leads to the pretty village of Artemisio (Kakouri)
and, further on, to the ruins of Ancient Mantinea. A little further, 13
kilometers from Tripoli, we come to the Kandila Monastery, at 1,050 meters.
The road descends to Kandila and in the Prefecture of Argolis. From Levidi,
the main Tripoli-Vytina road continues north west. We soon come to the
attractive village of Vlacherna (at an attitude of 1,100 meters), with
the historic monastery of the same name north of the village. After Vlacherna
to the west there is a fork. The right-hand fork soon encounters a minor
road to the left, which leads to the Lados valley and its villages, while
the main road continues north to Kalavryta. The left-hand fork turns south
west, along fir-clad slopes. Soon it enters Vytina, one of the most idyllic
and famous Greek mountain resorts, at a height of 1,000 meters. The thick
forests of Mt Mainalo give Vytina a healthy and invigorating climate as
well as providing the raw material for local arts and crafts. Wood-carving
is a local tradition. The site was well-known even in ancient times, when
it was associated with Pan and other Arcadian deities. From Vytina a minor
road leads south east to Alonistaina, Piana and Davia, and from there
to Tripoli. The road continues downhill through a thickly-wooded area.
In a beautiful gorge at a height of 690 m., Alonistaina (famous from the
time of the Franks) rises before us. Surrounded by the fir-clad slopes
of Mt Mainalo, nature has made it an ideal holiday resort. Sheltered from
the wind at a height of 1,120 meters, the so-called Alonistaina saddle
is a place of unique beauty. 
To the south, at a height of 1,050 meters, is the village of Piana above the green valley of Falantho, through which run the waters of the Elisson (Davia River). The main road continues to the south of Vytina and soon turns west. The route takes us through fine scenery, with plenty of greenery. A minor road leads off to the right (northwest), and soon brings us to Magouliana, summer residence of the Villehardouin family of nobles. Another beautiful spot is the area around Valtetsiniko, at 1,050 meters a little further on. There is rich vegetation and ample water from a spring. The village is famous for its production of wooden furniture in the traditional style. The road continues northwest and soon joins the minor road which began just outside Vlacherna and led down through the Ladonas valley and its villages. The main road continues to the south west and enters the picturesque village of Karkalou, at 810 meters. Langadia is a fine town, standing in a natural amphitheatre, 72 kilometers from Tripoli. The site is verdant and there is running water everywhere. The inhabitants are famed for their building skills, which find expression in the tall houses of the village. This road then forks at Stavrodromi, the main road continuing into the Ileia region, in the direction of Ancient Olympia. A minor road leads north from Stavrodromi, through Vyziki (740 meters) and soon reaches Tropaia, also built amphitheatrically on the slopes of Mt Ayios Yeorgios. As a resort town, it is visited by many Greeks and foreign tourists each year. The man-made Lake Ladonas lies about twelve and a half kilometers from Stavrodromi.
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